We woke early so walked around Whitby, then up the 199 steps to see the ruined Abbey, partially destroyed in the 13th century.

Bram Stoker was inspired to write ‘Dracula’ after visiting it. Whitby is a real holiday seaside town, but also famous for being the port where Captain Cook left from, in the Endeavor. Monuments abound.

Then off on the bikes again. It was good to be in the country, up hill and down dale, lovely little lanes and great paddocks of wheat. Had a proper ‘ploughman’s lunch’ at an 18 th century pub and sped off down the hill, over the river, then up and up and up until we were pushing the bikes.

Ploughman's lunch - skipped the onion

This was the way to the North Yorkshire Moors. It was hard, but it was great to be up at the top where the sky was huge, the heather was blooming, sun shining and wind following. Lots of hard riding, 5 hours to do 40 kms, but we felt strong and enjoyed it.

Steeply up to the moors

Finally rolled into the tiny ancient village of Appleton-le-Moor and our room in the 17th century pub. A gorgeous room under the eaves on the second floor. Showered, changed and in the bar in record time for our pint and Pimms, then a jolly nice evening meal.

Room under roof at Appleton-le-Moors

>We wandered around the village which is one of the best known examples of a planned village in England, and dates from late 12th to early 13th century. Amazing. Couldn’t believe the sheep wandering up and down the main street, grazing on the grass verges.

Sheep and red Tardis, main street Appleton

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Up and away to ride to Whitby.  We enjoyed the first half, through lovely little villages where the stone cottages were now more golden stone like the Cotswolds and there were a lot more Georgian style buildings.  Had a hearty lunch at a farm shop/cafe. It was just wonderful. Love listening to all the different accents. 

Great Aryton, Captain Cook’s birthplace was gorgeous, houses with glorious gardens basking in the sun beside a clear, shallow little river. But the day got hotter and the riding got harder. We decided to catch the train to Whitby, from the little village of Commondale.

First, find the station. It was some way out of the village, along a public bridle path and across a field. Seemed strange to have it in such a remote spot. When we got on, there was a jolly group in the carriage, having a picnic and glasses of wine and beer.

On the community train to Whitby

They were interested in the bikes and Peter’s Audax jersey and explained they would be going back and forth on the train all evening because when it stopped at Whitby, a band and a bar would be set up on the train, and there would be a grand sing along for everyone. They were very funny.

We were glad to get off and make our way up the East Cliff to ‘The Town House’ B&B. Why were we on the third floor again? But we had a great views, a good meal and enjoyed it.

Whitby, a tightly beautiful seaside village

Rode 63 kms that day.

Jane

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Enjoyed our breakfast again, packed and left in quite warm sunshine, need lots of sunscreen. Rolling through lovely little villages again, then up a bridle path through the fields to get off the main road. It got steeper, we had to push the bikes to the top, but oh what a view! The hedges have been replaced by low dry stone walls now, which are lower and Peter can see over them.

Lots more up and down riding and the day was quite warm when we stopped for lunch at the ‘No car cafe’ behind Rushdon Hall. Superb !

Soon chatting to another cyclist there and he suggested a change in route to avoid the traffic. We rode along the tops for a while (just loving it) and then down a long VERY steep little road into the tiny hamlet of Edale to catch the train there. Watched lots of people setting off with packs to go walking up these lovely green hills. Chatted to a man waiting there and he identified buzzards and jackdaws for us. Every day, something new – it is wonderful.

On the train, the conductor sold us tickets to Manchester, where we changed for Kendal. Train travelling is very smooth and comfortable. We were here at the BnB by 6.00pm and later walked along beside the clear shallow river into town. Had a wonderful Italian meal and bottle of red wine at the Infusion restaurant.

Jane

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Slept really well because it was so quiet and peaceful in this perfect little village. Sarah had done our washing for us, then presented a magnificent breakfast. We rode the unladen bikes to the magnificent stately Chatsworth House, 16thcentury.  Paid for a tour of the house and garden, well worth it.

The House is full of magnificent art and furniture, acres of gardens around the House, all wonderfully landscaped by Capability Brown and Thomas Paxton. The huge fountain and water features are amazing. 600 staff are  needed to run the estate, house, grounds and tourist business.

Later I caught the little bus into Bakewell for an explore. Had to have tea and a Bake well tart, served by a bloke from Bunbury WA.  The perfect end to this beautiful warm and sunny day was the stroll to our local pub for a pint and a Pimms, sitting outside, admiring the view of this gorgeous little village, all the lovely little stone houses with their doors, guttering and trim all painted in Chatsworth Blue.

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Travelled on a double-decker bus into Birmingham to walk around, admire, and go to the Jewellery Museum for a tour of one of the old workshops.  Birmingham is one of the 3 places in Britain to be an assay center (fascinating).

Jane

A highlight of the museum was the workshop, closed as a family business in the 1970s and kept intact until established as part of the museum. An amazing insight into another era of work.

Wotkshop pretty much as they left it

Cup of tea ready on the job

P

Up in good time, a hearty breakfast and then another delay while Peter tried to get the Sim cards working.

Packed and on the bikes finally by 10.30, we had a lovely ride around Stratford, then a tour of Anne Hathaway’s cottage and stunning garden. Impressed by the information which was so beautifully imparted.

Shakespeare was 8 years younger than Anne. By the time he was 20, they had 3 children and although he went to live and work in London, he supported them all.

Time for a quick lunch and we were away. Rode along a canal path for a way, but the path was not good and there were too many distractions (photos of canal boats, people to talk to), we eventually took a longer route to Birmingham. 80 ks that day. (Geographically challenging – P)

It was wonderful to be warmly welcomed by Margaret, fed, bathed and slept soundly.

Jane

It turns out that the Red Lion is one of the most common pub names in Britain. We have seen many of them, usually when geographically challenged. I thought we are meant to be in Cirencester. The is a Red Lion in Cricklade, but our one was in Castle Easton.

It was a pretty spot though and we were pretty impressed to see the swanlings.

What Jane didn’t say was that our first day on the bikes turned into a very long 100 km epic. Rather more than I had planned, and not the way one would really want to acclimatize to riding fully laden bicycles.

P

We rode the bikes along the river to see the amazing Brunel suspension bridge across the gorge. Then, time for brunch, pack and depart on our heavily laden bikes. Took a while to get out of Bristol, but once we found the Bristol to Bath bike path, we flew along in the sunshine.

We stopped at a supermarket to buy food. I left Peter to sort his gear while I shopped, returned to find him chatting to a blonde on a bike. She was Sally and was from Darfield (near Christchurch – Jane’s home. P), and she quickly became our new friend. We had our lunch together, she produced maps and offered to ride with us to see us on the right route to Cirencester. What a gem.

On the bike path out of Gristmill, following Sally.

We came across a “closure” but it isn’t much challenge for Aussies and kiwis!

The riding was gorgeous, sunshine, a following wind, divine little country lanes, beautiful countryside and several photo stops for picturesque houses. Sadly our directions to the Red Lion hotel went astray and we had just clocked 100k before we finally arrived at 9.00pm at the tiny village of Castle Eaton. But, our hostess, Melody, had kept a cold meal, we ate, bathed, and slept soundly.

Ate a hearty breakfast in the morning, admired Melody’s 18th century inn and lush garden sloping down to the river where a family of swans were posing for photos.

Melody identified the bush with large white flowers which we have seen flowering prolifically along the way, as elderflower. She put some drops of her homemade cordial in my water bottle.

Rode off into a cool morning towards Stratford-upon-Avon. Lovely riding again, it became more hilly, but not too hard, the sun came out and the wind was behind us.

Halfway mark was the picturesque village of Bourton-on-the-Water. It nestled on either side of the tiny, shallow and very clear Wind rush river. The Brits were out in their hundreds along the grassy banks, basking in what they thought was a hot day.

We had good meal and an ale at the pub and strolled along admiring the ancient little stone bridges and wonderful cottages and gardens.

Back on the bikes and we were glad our route took us down leafy little country lanes. The countryside gradually changed from large fields (the wheat often had red poppies flowering in it) to smaller fields and more woodlands. Still hilly, but the wonderful scenery drew us on. Just love these Cotswold villages with their ancient stone cottages, climbing roses all over them and gorgeous gardens.

Wildlife so far: heard a cuckoo, saw several pheasants running along the road, saw a squirrel, and, sadly,several dead badgers.

Found Stratford rail trail and our way to the YHA at Alverston, by 6.30. Distance 83.65 k. The YHA was in a huge converted Georgian mansion, and, even better, had a bar and a restaurant. Ate, showered and slept!

Love the long days, light until 9.30, but morning is too early. I am waking up at 6 or 6.30.

Jane

This was another longer than anticipated day. Spectacular countryside. Warm weather. Navigation is not easy.

P

The day was fine, we checked in at the Novatel, and then set off to explore.

Down by the river we found a bike shop, of course. Needed a couple of little items and were helped by a friendly young man who was from Mt Maunganui!

Further along the river was a crowd admiring a group of individually decorated Gromits. They were about 1.5m tall, for fundraising for the hospital, looked amazing.

The cathedral of St Mary’s Radcliffe was next. Built in the 1100s, a towering edifice with wonderful stained glass windows and a massive organ.

What a wonderful day, but we were tired and needed to eat and sleep.